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First job in New York?
I went around to all of the places I really liked: Seize Sur Vinght, Paul Stuart, Peter Elliot, Oxford Clothes. Seize was the first to call me back. They were on Elizabeth Street, and sort of the cool downtown tailor. I opened Miller’s Oath about a year ago; we specialize in bespoke tailoring, but make everything from shirts to scarves to ties.
When was your eye for tailoring taken to another level?
When I was at Paul Stuart (which was the opposite of Seize), I worked with the great Cliff Grodd. He pre-dated Ralph and all the others. He had an eye for detail and taste level that were insane. I would join his meetings, which was pretty unheard of. The man could plow through 300 swatches in 20 minutes, that’s an eye for detail.
Who’s style do you admire?
My father. He’s really stylish, I guess some things rubbed off. When I opened the shop he was the only one I could trust to run it, so he would come work for 5 days if I had to travel.
Which shoes do you always wear?
My brother Derrick and I decided to make shoes and started Barker Black, which he is still running. I wear these a lot. Otherwise I wear well-made shoes like John Lobb and Paul Stuart. My dad was sort of an influence, because he has a lot of English shoes and loves English everything.
What are some other great English shoes?
Edward Green and Sargent are also made in Northampton, where Barker Black and Lobb shoes are made.
Favorite New York restaurant?
It was Ninth Street Market, but nothing has taken it’s place since they closed. It was my kinda place; great food, unpretentious, and super intimate. Plus, they had a fireplace!
Preferred shirt collar?
I like wearing our rounded collar.
Suit/Jacket shoulder?
I introduced the rope shoulder into someone’s wardrobe recently– we kept the pockets straight to balance things out (one step at a time) and he ended up suggesting we slant them next time! I like helping people find the right cut and fit, everyone is completely different. I prefer a rounded cut.
Play any sports?
I was actually a quasi-professional soccer player out of school. I still play and watch it.
Athletic gear?
I have a bunch of really great soccer socks that I wear sometimes.
Picky about toothpaste?
Has to be Marvis!
What do you build your daily look around?
Each day is something new, depending on whether there’s a specific tie or pocket square I can’t wait to wear. Sometimes it’s a suit, or a shirt, but I have been known to build an entire outfit around a pair of socks!
I try not to look too fashion, and not to staied. It’s the length of the jacket, the length of the trouser, and the way everything fits together.
Do you travel with shoe trees?
Always. I use plastic ones, actually women’s shoe trees. Men’s shoe trees are usually too wide in the front, they don’t fit the shoes right.
Signature drink?
Still searching, which allows for a lot of experimentation. My grandfather drank 7 and 7’s all day, but I don’t think it’s my drink…too sweet.
What shops do you love to visit?
Makie- it’s a kid’s shop on Thompson Street. They make all their own clothes in the back. Everything looks and feels incredible, there’s so much attention to detail without being fussy; it’s the perfect shop. The door is really thick, it’s been painted 100 times.
Never caught wearing?
I never wear shorts in the city, or flip-flops for that matter.
How daring are you with wearing color?
I love color, but it has to be subtle. It doesn’t have to be a crazy pattern. Most of what I wear seems pretty classic, but everything is in the details.
Favorite heirloom piece?
My dad is 6’2” with very long arms, and I’m 5’10”, so I just look longingly at his wardrobe knowing I’ll never be able to wear those Anderson suits! But, he did give me an amazing pair of old silver rabbit head cuff links that are really beautiful.
How has your style evolved in the past 5 years?
It has varied so much. I used to be very English centric, very Saville Row; a very straight-laced approach.
Once I worked with Thom Browne, I was exposed to a totally different point of view than I had before. I learned how to have fun with themes and ideas. Sometimes it would be making fun of these themes, but only to push a boundary or ask a question.
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